What it is
A Denver die originally dated 1917 was re-hubbed with a 1918 date, leaving traces of the 7 under the 8. It is one of the great Buffalo nickel rarities.
How to identify it
- Under magnification, the top bar of a 7 shows inside the upper loop of the 8.
- The diagonal stroke of the 7 can be seen within the lower loop.
- D mint mark below FIVE CENTS.
A 5x to 10x loupe and good, angled light make the details much easier to see. For anything that looks genuine, a digital scale and a certified comparison coin help.
What gets mistaken for it
Because the date wears quickly on Buffalo nickels, many candidates are simply worn. Altered dates are common; have any candidate authenticated.
The regular 1918-D coin
The variety appears on the 1918-D Buffalo Nickel, which had a total mintage of 8,362,000. That figure counts the whole issue, so it does not tell you how many coins show the variety.
How a 1917 die became a 1918 die
Working dies in 1917 and 1918 were made by pressing a hub into a die blank several times. A die that had received at least one impression from a 1917 hub was finished with an impression from the new 1918 hub, so both dates ended up on the die. The 8 covered most of the 7, but parts of it stayed visible inside the loops of the 8.
The die was shipped to Denver and struck coins that were mixed with regular 1918-D nickels. Nobody noticed at the time. The overdate was recognized only years later, after many of the coins had already worn heavily in circulation.
Why the 1918/7-D is so hard to find
Buffalo nickels wore quickly. The date on the raised shoulder was one of the first areas to go. By the time collectors started looking for the overdate, most examples had worn dates and many had lost the date entirely. Uncirculated examples are among the rarest of all Buffalo nickels.
The same year produced the famous 1918/7-S Standing Liberty quarter, created in the same way. Both coins show how dies prepared at the end of one year could carry the old date into the next.
A step-by-step check
Use a 10x loupe and a light at a low angle on a well-preserved coin. On a worn coin a 16x or 20x loupe helps. Find the 8 and look at its lower loop: a genuine overdate shows the diagonal stroke of the 7 running through it. The top of the 8 also looks flatter than normal, where the 7 lies beneath it. Then confirm that the rest of the date reads 191 and that the D mint mark is below FIVE CENTS.
Rotate the coin under the light several times. Traces of the 7 are raised and part of the coin, so they change in brightness as you turn it but keep their shape. Marks inside the 8 that change shape with the light angle are surface damage.
On circulated coins the overdate is usually visible only from about Fine upward. A coin with a weak or flat date is unlikely to be attributed.
Altered dates and other traps
The most common fakes are altered coins. A 1918-D nickel with lines cut into the 8 to imitate a 7 is easy to spot under magnification, because the work leaves tool marks and the metal around the date looks disturbed. Struck counterfeits also exist and need expert examination.
Acid-restored dates are another trap. Buffalo nickels with worn dates are sometimes treated with acid to bring back the outline of the numbers, which can create misleading shapes inside the 8. An acid-treated coin has a dull, etched area around the date and cannot receive a straight grade.
Grades and surfaces collectors want
Most overdates grade from About Good to Very Fine. Collectors look for a coin with the full date and overdate clearly visible, an original surface with no cleaning and even wear. A full horn on the bison and a sharp date are the marks of a well-preserved example.
Original color matters as well. Nickel tones to a soft gray or gold over time. A coin that looks unnaturally bright has usually been cleaned.
Authentication
PCGS and NGC certify the 1918/7-D and it is listed in the Cherrypickers' Guide. Because it is one of the most valuable Buffalo nickels, insist on certification from a major service and check the certification number before buying.
Other Buffalo nickel overdates and varieties
The Buffalo nickel series also includes the 1914/3 overdates, which are far subtler than the 1918/7-D and need strong magnification. Collectors of the series also look for the 1916 doubled die obverse and the 1937-D three-legged variety, which together with the 1918/7-D form the great varieties of the series.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if I have a 1918/7-D Buffalo Nickel Overdate?
Under magnification, the top bar of a 7 shows inside the upper loop of the 8. The diagonal stroke of the 7 can be seen within the lower loop. If your coin passes these checks, have it authenticated by PCGS or NGC before buying or selling.
Is the 1918/7-D Buffalo Nickel Overdate valuable?
Genuine examples sell for a premium over regular coins of the same date. The amount depends on how strong the variety is, the coin's condition and whether it is certified. Compare recent sold auction results for certified coins in the same grade.
What is a overdate?
An overdate shows one date punched or hubbed over another, usually because the Mint reused a die from the previous year. Read more about overdates.
Is there a 1918/7 buffalo nickel from Philadelphia or San Francisco?
No. The famous Buffalo nickel overdate is known only from Denver. The 1918/7-S overdate of the same year is a Standing Liberty quarter, not a nickel.
Why is the 1918/7-D so rare in high grades?
The coins circulated for years before anyone noticed the overdate, so most wore down. Very few were saved in Uncirculated condition.